Chinese Local Fashion Designers Are At The Stage Of "Rapid Growth"

　　 The buyer will designer Bring to the original platform

The emergence of online shopping has not only stimulated the material needs, but also gradually broke people's traditional understanding of fashion and fashion, and has relatively enriched the choices of shoppers. In the past 10 years, Chinese local fashion designers have been in the stage of "rapid growth". In addition to the sharp increase in the number of people, they also have more diversified vision and information. At the same time, this market, which has grown rapidly with them, is also experiencing "unprecedented prosperity".

In the past, when independent designers made seasonal products, most people stopped here. Since there were few fashion buyers, fashion week and online channels became the "only choice" for many designers. Even with the influence of independent designers, it was unlikely that all small workshop style designer brands could be brought into the huge market. Jiang Shan, a fashion buyer, once encountered this situation. When he saw a designer marking a product worth 9000 yuan, he asked why the price was so high. The designer replied, "The cost of a single piece is high, and mass production is not possible. You can only mark a high price, or you will lose money." Such confusion became a problem that most independent designers were facing at that time.

Since the British magazine Dazed&Combined selected 18 new fashion designers in 2008, Du Yang and Xander Zhou were among them. Later, people saw more names in Chinese magazines, such as Uma Wang, Wang Peiyi, Ye Qian, Ji Cheng, Li Lee, Chi Zhang, Vega Wang, etc. However, When readers ask editors for purchasing methods, most people find it difficult to give an exact store address or contact information.

Soon, the establishment and improvement of "Dongliang", "Mint · Glutinous Rice · Cong", "Seven Days" and other stores and commercial platforms brought the buyer system into the emerging independent design market in China. In this "immature" market, buyers brought designers in the "free" shape to the initial platform they needed to step on, Hong Huang said, "With buyers and buyers' shops, designers can learn more about the market, rather than making cars behind closed doors." clothing On the forum, Hong Huang felt that buyers could really "activate" the brand. She said: "As a link, buyers connect brand merchants, channels and consumers, and at the same time, they also create a new brand ecology and business pattern." Today, between independent designers and the market, a "gradually clear" purchasing link is still being established.

　　 Let people see more "Chinese design"

Zhang Longjiang has been doing fabric business since 1991. In the first 18 years, he hardly intended to transform or upgrade the company. "In the past, when we talked about China's fashion and fashion industry, we usually said spin In the manufacturing industry, at that time, my company was supplying fabrics to international brands. At that time, we paid more attention to design and research and development in the process of developing products. We put the best technology, style, and planning in line with the trend into product manufacturing. It can be said that the design made us earn money. At that time, I could really feel the importance of design. " Zhang Longjiang gradually realized the role of brand value. In 2008, he formally acquired Seven Days in Hong Kong. He said, "We have acquired its existing model, team, brand and channel. Then I made some adjustments, based on local designers, to turn it into a brand that conforms to the domestic market and is dominated by domestic designers."

In November 2009, there was a new store called "Dongliang" in Wudaoying Hutong in Beijing. The common hobby of the two shopkeepers was design. They collected the products of the best Chinese independent designers in their minds, and patiently introduced the products of each designer to visitors. Two years later, "Dongliang" opened a branch in Shanghai. People saw more "Chinese design" in an old villa with an area of more than 200 square meters on Fumin Road in Shanghai.

The original English name of "peppermint, glutinous rice and scallion" - BNC, "Brand New China", Hong Huang thought it was appropriate to describe many industries in China with peppermint, glutinous rice and scallion, so he chose this name for his "Chinese designer shop". In August 2010, when the "peppermint, glutinous rice and onion" opened, many people thought Hong Huang had opened a restaurant. In fact, Hong Huang called this shop located on the ground floor of Sanlitun Village North District "a Chinese original design shop with contemporary Chinese consciousness". The architect Zhang Yonghe designed the 540 square meter store, and Hong Huang "acted as an agent" in the way of cooperating with buyers.

With his optimism and enthusiasm for Chinese local design, "Mint, glutinous rice and onion" attracted a large number of independent designers, and Hong Huang also began to try to sell these products to more people. Hong Huang once wrote in the prologue of his magazine that since the opening day, I have not been to the editorial department very much. Every day, I soak in the shop and post "weibo". I have become a retailer seriously. However, after two weeks in the shop, I felt more profound than the editorial department in the past 10 years. In the past month, I feel that Chinese design has a promising future, because we have completely transcended the "three vulgarity" of Chinese elements: plate buttons, embroidery pieces and cheongsam. In Hong Huang's opinion, this group of independent designers have the ability to appreciate each other and have not inherited the tradition of "scholars despise each other". Their works are excellent enough, not only because they don't copy anyone, but in fact, they are shaping a new aesthetic.